Portmeirion

Snowdonia in North Wales has many attractions but for many people the region summons up images of high, rugged peaks – epitomised by Snowdon itself which, at over 3,500 feet, is the country’s highest; and quite rightly, because these majestic mountains are a major draw for tourists.

But no trip to this corner of Britain is complete without visiting Portmeirion, a unique coastal resort open all year (except Christmas Day). For fans of Sixties’ TV programme, The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan, this picturesque village will be very familiar because it’s where the series was set; in fact, McGoohan took a shine to the place even earlier when an episode of his secret agent show, Danger Man, was shot here.

However, you don’t have to be a fan of either show to enjoy this attractive and, in some ways, bizarre little place. It was designed and owned by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, a Welsh architect who wanted to prove that a fantastic setting could be developed without ruining the area. He spent five decades building Portmeirion and what a fine job he made of it. Colourful, secretive, mysterious are just some appropriate adjectives when describing this Italian-influenced resort.

As well as strolling around the village and admiring the gardens and buildings, spare some time to undertake a forest or coastal walk because there are miles of paths and views to die for.

Although visiting – even for just a few hours – is a delight, nothing beats staying in the resort because when the gates shut and the day visitors leave, you have it to yourself; it really provides the icing on the cake for any visit to this exceptional place.

Portmeirion boasts 17 self-catering cottages dotted around the grounds, sleeping everything from three to eight people. My family and I stayed in Arches Suite, close to the café and shop, which comes with its own parking space outside.

The suite, containing a double and twin room, is well equipped, decorated in a fine retro style and very comfortable; it’s also centrally located, in the heart of Portmeirion – but then nowhere in the resort feels out on a limb.

There are two evening restaurants to choose from: the Hotel Portmeirion dining room, which has been awarded two rosettes by the AA, and Castell Deudraeth Brasserie, a more informal restaurant that has earned one AA rosette. We eat breakfast and dinner at the hotel’s spacious restaurant and were suitably impressed.

The hotel – which has 14 bedrooms, all with different décor – is a perfect place to eat. Dining here is complemented by the stunning views across the estuary towards the mountains. The shape of the restaurant and its herringbone wood flooring and wood panelling make it feel like you’re dining on a vintage ocean liner.

The food was terrific and full marks are given to the restaurant staff who were adaptable with the menus. Being a family of veggies, including two children who can be fussy eaters at times, finding the right dish can sometimes be a task; thankfully, tweaking the meals to accommodate our likes and dislikes wasn’t any trouble and helped make our stay even more enjoyable.

In clement weather, nothing beats sitting outside on the terrace where an informal menu is offered throughout the day. There is also a heated outdoor swimming pool, which is available for anyone staying in the village or using the Mermaid Spa. The pool is open from May until September, dependant on weather conditions.

Inside the hotel, the various seating areas are full of intricately-carved wooden fireplaces, ornate mirrors and plush sofas – all very comfortable.

The main structure of the hotel dates from around 1850 but was extended by Williams-Ellis in 1926 and 1930. The lobby, which was damaged in a fire, was rebuilt and opened by Jools Holland in July 2010. Holland isn’t the resort’s only celebrity fan: George Harrison, Brian Epstein and H. G. Wells enjoyed it here, while Noël Coward wrote his 1941 play, Blithe Spirit, in the village; and many exterior shots in the 1958 movie, The Inn of the Sixth Happiness, starring Ingrid Bergman and Robert Donat, were filmed in and around this spot.

To find out more about Portmeirion’s history, there is a very interesting audio-visual presentation in the village or you can join one of the complimentary guided tours, operating between 11am-3pm from the lodge next to the entrance tollgate.

Portmeirion attracts approximately 250,000 day visitors each year and I’m sure no one leaves disappointed. It really is a magical little place hidden away on the beautiful northwestern coast of Wales. There is nowhere to rival Williams-Ellis’ dream village – it really is unique and highly recommended.

More information:

Minffordd

Penrhyndeudraeth

Gwynedd LL48 6ER

www.portmeirion-village.com, tel: 01766 770000

For information on Snowdonia, visit www.attractionsofsnowdonia.com

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