Bydgoszcz – 10 Things to See & Do

If visiting between May-September, jump aboard one of the city’s solar-powered vessels for a cruise along the Brda River. Choose from two itineraries:

The Old Town Route or Sunny Route. While the former takes you past some interesting monuments, it also involves crossing the City Lock twice, where the vessel overcomes the 10-foot difference in water level. The Sunny Route, meanwhile, focuses heavily on the city’s heritage of water sports. Both cruises take around an hour and depart from Fish Market Square.

You might think that visiting an old water tower housing the Museum of Waterworks wouldn’t be high on our priority list. Well, you’re wrong and we’re glad we headed up to the tower, sitting atop Henryk Dąbrowski Hill on the city’s southern edge. Nearly 150-feet tall, it was built in 1900 in a design meant to resemble the turret of a medieval castle. Inside, climb up to the viewing platform for panoramic views and enjoy the exhibition detailing the history of the local waterworks and sewers – there are even old bathroom and toilet accessories!

Many Polish cities operate a multi-media fountain display during the warmer months and Bydgoszcz is no exception. It’s free to watch these beautifully choreographed displays comprising water jets, coloured LED lights, lasers and music. Bydgoszcz’s display – which operates daily during the summer and several times a week during the shoulder seasons – takes place in the Music District, close to Jan Kochanowski Park.

Wherever we go, we love frequenting coffee shops and I’m pleased to say there are myriad cafés to choose from in Bydgoszcz. Being vegan, it was good to see various milk alternatives were available, including pea milk – made from yellow split peas – which is less common here in Blighty. We particularly enjoyed Zapalka Coffee, Landschaft Coffee and Niedzy Nami but our favourite was the contemporary-decorated Zwei Coffee, situated at the Academy of Music Campus. Indoor and outdoor seating is available, the setting is tranquil and what’s on offer is spot-on.

The focal point in most Polish cities is the Old Market Square and that’s the case in Bydgoszcz. The foundations were laid in the 1300s when the city was founded but the lion’s share of buildings edging the square today date from the 19^th century. The striking cream-coloured City Hall, restaurants, cafés and other properties here mean you’ll certainly be reaching for your camera.

The black-coloured Monument to the Struggle and Martyrdom is a stark reminder of the atrocities which happened here when Polish citizens and resistance fighters were killed by the Nazis during the Second World War.

Among the many things we enjoyed about our time in Bydgoszcz was doing the simple things like wandering through its parks, sitting on a bench for a moment or two and strolling alongside the river. While we never got out to Myslecinek, Poland’s largest municipal park some three miles outside the city, we certainly visited our fair share, such as Jan Kochanowski Park, named after the Polish poet, and Kazimierz Wielki Park, the city’s oldest. With around 30 official parks and numerous smaller green spaces, it’s no wonder Bydgoszcz is regarded as among the country’s greenest cities.

This is a country which likes its statues and sculptures so you won’t be surprised to hear that there are plenty to be found in the parks and streets. One of the most impressive – and most photographed – is Man Crossing the River. Unveiled in May 2004 to celebrate joining the EU, the sculpture balances on a fine wire spanning the river. Others include the early 20^th century Archer Lady in Jan Kochanowski Park, the Deluge Fountain in Kazimierza Wielki Park and, one of our favourites, the Bench Sculpture of Professor Zygmunt Mackiewicz – who specialized in medicine – close to the aforementioned park.

There are over 60 churches in the city, including the impressive Cathedral of St Martin and St Nicholas.  Found in the Old Town, close to the Brda River, the striking interior of this 15^th century Gothic church has a brightly-coloured modernist look. After admiring the beauty of the cathedral’s architecture, we headed for Basilica Minor of the Vincent de Paul, the city’s largest church with its huge dome measuring over 200 feet high. Such is the size of this church, it can hold around 12,000 people.

If you have a spare day, why not board a train for nearby Torun? For three return tickets, we paid around £20 and reached our destination within an hour. One of the country’s oldest cities, and some say among the most beautiful, it’s UNESCO-listed Old Town is a must, partly because it remained unscathed during the Second World War. Cobbled streets, beautiful buildings, riverside walking, a plethora of cafés and restaurants, Torun has much to offer, so it’s worthwhile including it in your itinerary.