With heat stinging my face and sweat streaming from seemingly every pore of my body, I took solace in the knowledge that apparently saunas help banish life’s stresses.
You can’t visit Finland, home of the sauna, without sampling what has been an integral part of life here for over 2,000 years. And that’s what I did at Kotiharju, the last remaining public wood-burning establishment in Helsinki. Feeling revitalised, if not a little red, I emerged from the intense heat realising that it was a perfect way to start a short-break in the Finnish capital.
In need of refreshment, I headed for the city centre and hopped on the only red tram in Helsinki which has been converted into a mobile bar and during the summer trundles along the city’s streets. Sipping a cool orange juice, I gazed out at locals soaking up the evening sun at pavement cafés, families playing in the parks and admired the city’s Russian, Scandinavian and European architecture, signifying a turbulent 450-year history before Finland gained independence in 1917.
Summer is the ideal time to visit Helsinki, with long sunny days offering ample opportunity to pack in plenty of sightseeing and relaxing. I strolled up a tree-lined street to Café Esplanad, famous for oversized cinnamon buns called korvapuustis, which translated means, bizarrely, ‘a slap in the ear’. As I munched through the pastry, music emanating from a nearby bandstand filled the air. This sense of tranquillity pervaded every inch of classy Helsinki.
(c) Richard Webber
The city’s elegance is evident in its architecture. At Senate Square, in the heart of the city, I admired the University Building and Senate House before climbing wide, sweeping steps up to the gleaming white, green-domed Helsinki Cathedral. This corner of the city is a photographer’s dream, with the 19th century Uspenski Cathedral a perfect example of Russian Byzantine handiwork. I shaded my eyes from the sun’s glare reflecting off its thirteen gold, onion-shaped domes before heading for the Market Square, where traders sell their wares from stalls spread around the cobbled quayside and fishing boats moored alongside.
(c) Richard Webber
There is an unassuming efficiency about Nordic cities and Helsinki is no exception, typified by its punctual tram network. One route took me to Seurasaari, one of hundreds of islands in the region. Cross a wooden bridge, connecting the islet to the mainland, and you step back in time at an open-air museum dedicated to country life between the 18th and 20th centuries. Over 80 buildings, including cottages and farmsteads, have been relocated from across Finland and rebuilt among the woods. There are countless trails to explore, too, weaving their way around the site.
Helsinki is compact and easily explored on foot or tram and the following day, I strolled to the Market Square, stopping at the orange-canopied Café Crèpe for a crèpe with apple and rhubarb jam, setting me back €7. Eating out in Scandinavian cities isn’t cheap – a weak pound doesn’t help, either. But, thankfully, the taste didn’t disappoint.
(c) Richard Webber
On any city break, I enjoy venturing out into the countryside, which I did at Lake Tuusula, half an hour from Helsinki. This area has become a magnet for musicians and artists, and as well as enjoying a peaceful lakeside walk, you can visit the homes of Finnish composer Jean Sibelius and painter Pekka Halonen.
Another must on any itinerary is a visit to the fortress island of Suomenlinna. Back in the city, I flashed my Helsinki Card – allowing me free rides on public transport and free entrance to many museums – and jumped on a ferry. Fifteen minutes later, I was exploring one of the biggest sea fortresses in the world, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in the 18th century, it’s among the city’s top attractions. While families headed for secluded spots with picnic baskets, I soaked up a little history at the museum before enjoying a coffee at Café Piper, where the rock terrace offers uninterrupted views out to sea.
After exploring the rest of the fortress, I wandered down to the jetty and, as expected, a ferry was waiting patiently to whisk me back to the mainland. As the ferry approached the waterfront, the sun was glistening on the water and reflecting off the golden domes of Uspenski Cathedral. I reflected on my enjoyable break in this northern city and appreciated why Helsinki is nicknamed ‘The Pearl of the Baltic’.
(c) Richard Webber
(c) Richard Webber
Must Do…
Buy a Helsinki Card and enjoy free travel on public transport, free entrance to over 30 museums and discounts at various restaurants.
Get acquainted with the city by jumping on the Audio City Tour bus (free with the Helsinki Card) for a 90-minute trip around the capital’s highlights.
Hop on a ferry for Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 15-minute ferry trip to the fortress island is a delight in itself.
Hire a car and explore beyond the city. Try Lake Tuusula (30-minute drive north) and stroll along peaceful lakeside paths.
Join locals relaxing in the Esplanadi, the city’s most emblematic park, and watch the world go by.
Finland is home to the sauna so don’t leave without experiencing one.
For sightseeing with a difference, jump on the only red tram in Helsinki. Converted into a mobile bar, adult tickets cost €8, Under 12s €8 (summer months only).
Helsinki’s cakes are unbeatable so forget the calories and tuck into one of the scrumptious offerings at Café Esplanad (Pohjoisesplanadi 37, in the heart of the city).
Kids will love Linnanmaki, Finland’s most popular amusement park, with nearly 50 rides. Try the 60-year-old wooden rollercoaster.
Stroll around the waterfront Market Square, which has operated since the 18thcentury, and pick up souvenirs.
(c) Richard Webber
More information:
Baltic Holidays (0845 0705710; www.balticholidays.com)
For transfers to the city, catch the Finnair City Bus (runs every 20 minutes)
For more information about Helsinki, contact Visit Finland at www.visitfinland.com