“The volcano’s erupting!” screamed a little boy beside me as a towering plume of steam shot out of the earth. As the spectacle subsided in the heart of Lanzarote’s Timanfaya National Park, the grinning guide, who prompted the display by pouring water into a deep hole, told his attentive audience that there is no cause for concern – the last eruption on the island was back in 1824.
Like the rest of the Canaries, this all-year destination – which boasts around 300 days sunshine a year – is of volcanic origin. But although it’s nearly two centuries since the last lava flowed, this demonstration reveals that beneath my feet there is still life in one of the island’s 300-odd volcanoes.
In fact, I was reliably informed by our English-speaking guide that just 30 feet below the surface of this patch of volcanic landscape, dubbed Fire Mountain, temperatures reach a staggering 600 degrees centigrade. That explains the plethora of chickens, sizzling away on spits, just outside the restaurant. The spits lie across a gaping hole, resembling a well, and the blistering heat wafting up from inside the volcano acts as an oven.
My nine-year-old daughter, Hollie, has been studying volcanoes at school so she delighted in jumping on a coach for the half-hour tour of the island’s top tourist attraction. We snaked our way along a one-track road, heads twisting from side to side as we admired the black, arid lava fields.
“It’s like being on another planet,” remarked Hollie, and in the absence of any other sign of civilisation, I agreed, taking yet another picture of the sculpted landscape.
Our lesson in volcanoes didn’t end as we left the car park in our hire car because a few minutes away the visitor centre, built partially sunken into lava fields, offers interesting displays, interactive videos and, the best bit, a series of simulated volcanic eruptions, providing a taste of what it must be like standing in the vicinity of a real eruption.
It had been such an interesting day, with a precarious camel ride up the outer slopes of the volcano squeezed into the agenda, too, that we were still talking about our experiences as we reached our base, the First Choice Holiday Village in Playa Blanca, on the southwestern tip of the island.
The site commands a fine seaside position and our first-floor apartment afforded a breathtaking view across the water to the island of Fuerteventura, twenty miles away. It was our first experience of all-inclusive holidaying, and we were suitably impressed.
For sun-worshippers there are myriad sun-loungers around the various pools, although you’ll have to get up early to bag one, while the company’s welcoming staff ran a host of clubs and activities for the children.
Although we enjoyed our fair share of relaxing around the pool, we’re an active bunch while on holiday and next day decided to explore our resort. We strolled along the promenade running the entire length of Playa Blanca.
After passing the tiny port, where ferries depart regularly for nearby Fuerteventura, we stopped and bought postcards from the souvenir shops lining the promenade and enjoyed a cooling drink at one of the many waterfront cafés, before reaching Playa Dorada, our favourite beach in the resort.
A trademark of volcanic islands is black sandy beaches but, fortunately, Lanzarote has more than its fair share of white sand. Playa Dorada is ideal for families, being close to amenities, but the pick of the beaches on this island is Papagayo.
Situated just outside Playa Blanca, it’s one of several secluded coves reached via a dirt track. Alternatively, a taxi boat departs from the harbour and marina several times a day. Other than a small open-air restaurant perched above the sweep of sand, there are no facilities.
The beach is protected to save its unspoiled nature, indicative of much of the island. Unlike those sun-drenched destinations tainted by a lager-lout image and over-development, Lanzarote has avoided such pitfalls and exudes a relaxed, peaceful low-key atmosphere.
Most of the island’s beaches are situated around the southern coastline, but Lanzarote has much more to offer than sand and sea. At just 38 miles by 15, it’s easy to get around. I recommend hiring a car because with half the island’s 130,000 population living in the capital, Arrecife, roads are quiet.
The following day, we jumped in our car and headed north-east, stopping briefly at Yaiza. Palm fronds danced in the keen northerly wind as we walked along quiet streets, admiring the sugar cube-shaped houses. Bring your sunglasses, though, because the sun reflects off the startling white-washed buildings.
Our drive to the north of the island took us through La Geria, the main wine-growing region. It’s hard to imagine any vegetation growing in this hard, unforgiving volcanic landscape but individual vines, sheltered by semi-circular walls, are nurtured by diligent farmers. Their efforts are rewarded with a beautiful crisp wine.
Next stop was Monumento Al Campesino and Casa-Museo Del Campesiono (Monument and Museum House of the Farmer), marking the centre of the island. The strangely-shaped white monument, erected in Sixties, was designed by the late Cesar Manrique, an internationally-renowned artist and architect. Take a moment to visit the museum which replicates traditional farm buildings.
Manrique’s influences can be found all over the island. His love of mobiles (and I’m not referring to the phone) is evident from the many displayed at, seemingly, every roundabout and junction.
His own home, partly submerged in the volcanic rock, is a must for any itinerary. After admiring examples of his works of art, we descended flights of steps into five volcanic bubbles, formed during the 18th century eruptions, which the artist converted into rooms, each possessing its own unique character.
Continuing north, we detoured to Famara. Set against a backdrop of 1500-foot cliffs, the town’s beach is a major draw for surfers, keen to ride the hefty rollers which pound the golden sand. Dangerous currents meant we restricted ourselves to paddling, but it was a beautiful spot to enjoy a bite to eat before carrying on with our journey, eventually reaching Mirador del Rio.
This viewpoint at the island’s northern tip, with its restaurant and fine viewing platform, was the work of that man again – Cesar Manrique. An entrance fee of 4.5 euros for adults and 2.5 for children is worth it, just for the stunning panoramic view of the open ocean and Lanzarote’s sister island, the tiny La Graciosa.
Later in the week, we took the 20-minute ferry journey from Orzola to La Graciosa, where it seems time stands still. With no cars, save a few Land Rovers, and no paved roads outside the main settlement, we hired bikes and explored a little bit of this tiny island, populated by under 700 people.
We packed much into our week’s holiday, including visiting a quarry-turned-cactus garden boasting nearly 1,500 varieties and an exotic underground water garden, both Manrique masterstrokes.
One of the pluses is that with everything in easy reach of Playa Blanca, we always had plenty of time to indulge our passion for sightseeing yet still have a chunk of the day for relaxing on the beach or alongside the pool at the holiday village.
It had been a long time since I’d ventured to the Canary Islands, but it won’t be long before I return to the sedateness of sunny Lanzarote.
Must do…
Take a guided walk through a section of Green’s Cave, one of the world’s longest lava cave systems.
Jump on a boat at the northern port of Orzola and explore the nearby island of La Graciosa.
Try a glass of the local Malvasia wine. The grapes are grown primarily in the volcanic soil of La Geria region.
Visit Jardin de Cactus, a garden boasting nearly 1500 varieties of cactus.
Stop off at Fundacion Cesar Manrique, home of the late artist Cesar Manrique. Half submerged in the volcanic landscape, its rooms are adorned by the artist’s work.
In the heart of Timanfaya National Park, enjoy a 30-minute coach trip exploring Islote de Hilario, the volcano nicknamed Fire Mountain.
Unlike some islands in the Canaries, Lanzarote boasts lovely white sandy beaches, so take your pick and unwind. Playa Dorada, in the resort of Playa Blanca, was one of our favourites.
Watch the powerful rollers on the wide, sandy surfers’ beach at Famara.
Climb on a camel and be carried up the side of a volcano at the Camel Park in Timanfaya National Park.
From the First Choice Holiday Village, stroll along the promenade to the centre of Playa Blanca, with its many seaside restaurants, shops and recently-built marina.
Further information:
First Choice offers family holidays in Lanzarote staying all-inclusive at the 4 Sun Holiday Village Flamingo Beach. For more information go to www.firstchoice.co.uk/holidayvillage or call 0871 200 4455. For competitively-priced car hire, contact Carjet on www.carjet.com or call 0871 271 6767.