Lying submerged up to your neck in a tub of hot sand seems a bizarre way to start a holiday on the sunny isle of Porto Santo, but as sweat trickled from every pore, the benefits of my spa treatment kicked in.
Research shows that the island’s golden sand contains therapeutic properties. Rich in minerals, it helps restore, for starters, lack of salts in the body caused by stress and fatigue. It seemed the perfect chrissy present to myself.
Relaxed and invigorated after my session at Hotel Porto Santo’s smart spa, there was a noticeable spring in my step as I strolled along the island’s beautiful six-mile long beach. Whereas big brother Madeira, 20 miles away, is beachless, Porto Santo’s main tourist attraction doesn’t disappoint, spanning the entire southern coastline.
(c) Richard Webber
Largely overlooked by British tourists, Porto Santo’s emergence on the world stage is gathering pace. Although some hotels and restaurants close when the summer season ends, the island is worth visiting any time of year. A dry, temperate climate means average temperatures of 23 degrees in summer, 19 in winter and year-round swimming – even at Christmas.
(c) Richard Webber
My base was Hotel Porto Santo, a short walk from Vila Baleira, the only town of note. Open all year, the hotel’s proximity to the beach meant I enjoyed morning dips in the clear blue ocean before setting off to explore the island. Sports enthusiasts are well catered for. Horse riding, windsurfing and diving can be undertaken while golfers will adore the Seve Ballesteros-designed course, the venue for international tournaments.
To learn more about the island’s history and landscape, I booked a Jeep excursion with Carla, an enthusiastic English-speaking guide. We visited a traditional 250-year-old house, sampled local wine, stopped at breathtaking viewpoints and sipped coffee at Quinta das Palmeiras, a small botanical garden and café near the airport.
Fifteen years in the making, its lush greenery is home to birds, insects and plants from around the world. Carlos, the owner, ran a surf school before quitting to create his mini-oasis.
Next morning, I hired a car and explored independently. It’s virtually impossible to get lost on Porto Santo and I spent the day driving and walking, including hiking to Pico do Facho, the highest peak at 1,700-feet. Translated to ‘Peak of the Torch’, warning beacons were lit here in the days when pirates posed a threat. I finished my day with a meal at Calhetas, perhaps the most attractively located restaurant, at the end of the coast road. While staring out across the beach and nearby rocky islet, I munched away while watching an unmissable sunset.
(c) Richard Webber
Another favourite restaurant was on the other side of the island. Quinta do Serrado, also a hotel, is set in a valley and the welcoming owners, like others on the island, offer a courtesy bus to pick you up. Despite its size – only seven miles by four – you won’t be short of things to see and do on Porto Santo, making it an interesting destination to visit. But when you’re here, make sure you spend time on Madeira before flying home.
An island of rugged mountains and dense vegetation, much can be explored from its capital, Funchal. Book a Land Rover safari into its mountainous interior or take a cable car to the Botanical Garden boasting fine views of the town from its lofty position. But ensure you indulge in afternoon tea at the famous Reid’s Hotel.
As I left this corner of Europe. I was convinced of one thing: with Porto Santo’s never-ending beach, friendly people, carefree atmosphere and favourable climate, it won’t be long before more people are sampling the Golden Island’s delights.
Must Do…
1. Stroll along the island’s six-mile stretch of golden sand, which is washed by the clear blue waters of the Atlantic.
2. Pamper yourself at one of many spas. Try the hot sand treatment at Hotel Porto Santo and feel fortified.
3. Although the island is tiny, hire a car for a day (www.autocarhire.net) and explore at your leisure.
4. Travel off-road and see spectacular scenery your hire car couldn’t reach by booking a Jeep Safari (Lazermar, tel: 00351 96 35 01 488).
5. Explorer Christopher Columbus lived on the island and his life is celebrated at the Porto Santo Museum in the main town, Vila Baleira (www.museucolombo-portosanto.com).
6. Adjust to the island’s gentler pace of life by wandering around the promenade and quiet streets of Vila Baleira, stopping to sit and watch the world go by in the main square.
7. Visit Quinta das Palmeiras, a quiet botanical garden which has been created by one man.
8. Eat out at the many open-air beachside restaurants. My favourites included Pe na Agua (tel: 00351 291 983 114) where the mimos banana dessert is delicious.
9. Don hiking boots and follow one of several signed walks traversing Porto Santo’s rocky landscape.
10. Leave time to enjoy a day or so in Madeira before flying home. Treat yourself to afternoon tea at the famous Reid’s Hotel (www.reidspalace.com).
Further information:
easyJet flies to Madeira from three airports, including Bristol (www.easyJet.com).
Hotel Porto Santo (www.hotelportosanto.com).
Transfers between Madeira and Porto Santo are by air (15-min flight,www.sata.pt) or ferry (2 hours, www.portosantoline.pt).
For more info, see www.visitmadeira.pt.