Kaunas – 10 Things to See & Do

Jump on the funicular for the short climb up Aleksotas Hill. From the viewing platform alongside the top station, you’re afforded a breathtaking view of Vytautas the Great Bridge, Nemunas River (the country’s longest), the Old Town and a great chunk of the city. Operational since the 1930s, Kaunas is, allegedly, the only Baltic city possessing a funicular.

Just a stone’s throw from the Old Town Square – at the entrance to Santaka Park – is the castle, which houses the City Museum. If you’re a believer in legends, you’ll be interested to hear that, apparently, the Beast of Kaunas sleeps underneath the castle! This 14^th century structure’s claim to fame is that while being among the country’s few brick castles, it’s unique because it has two defensive walls. Meanwhile, the impressive 20-foot bronze statue nearby is the “Freedom Warrior”.

Seek out this small courtyard close to the city centre where the buildings’ exterior walls are covered in highly colourful murals. When artist Vytenis Jakas moved here, he quickly noticed that the residents were distant, rarely communicated amongst themselves and the surroundings were drab. So he brought the courtyard to life with paintings portraying not only the happy stories of past residents but tragic stories, too.

For us, picking cities with a thriving café culture is key – we love our coffee and the cozy, relaxing atmosphere of contemporary cafés. I’m pleased to say that Kaunas didn’t disappoint on that front. If, like my daughter and me, you’re vegan, soya is less popular while oat, almond and coconut milks are usually available. Our favourite spots included M Bakery, close to the Old Town Square, Green Café, near the superb St Michael the Archangel Church in linden tree-lined Liberty Avenue, and Kasdienybes Bakehouse.

Once operating as the city’s commercial centre, the Old Town Square is fringed by a host of photogenic buildings plus pavement cafés. Centrepiece is the 16^th century Town Hall. Nicknamed “The White Swan” because of its colour and graceful shape, its slender town is over 170 feet high, tallest in the Old Town. Everywhere you look, you’ll be reaching for your camera, so impressive are the buildings. From the square, make sure you wander along cobblestoned Vilnius Street, oldest in the city and, arguably, most beautiful.

It’s not difficult finding green spaces in Kaunas because it’s estimated that parks and forests equate to around 15% of the entire urban area. We enjoyed strolling through Santaka Park, alias Confluence Park because the Nemunas and Neris rivers meet in this corner of the city. Established in 1993, the park offers not only a fine space for walking and relaxing but recreational facilities, too, such as a perfectly-maintained running track which Hollie used while out exercising each morning.

Among the 30 or so museums and galleries in Kaunas, one of the most highly respected is the National Museum of Art. There are often temporary exhibitions alongside five or so permanent displays. Among the latter is an exhibition showcasing over 100 paintings from M. K. Ciurlionis, the famous Lithuanian painter, composer and cultural figure. Another exhibition when we visited spotlighted Lithuanian Art between the 14^th-19^th centuries.

There are plenty of photogenic churches in Kaunas, with Basilica of the Resurrection of Our Lord Jesus Christ among the most striking. You can’t miss it, this interestingly-shaped church is located atop Žaliakalnis Hill. A symbol of the country’s independence, building started during the 1930s, although the Second World War and Soviet occupation delayed its completion, which happened in the 1990s. During the war, it was converted into a paper warehouse and served as a factory manufacturing radio receivers throughout the Soviet era. The church’s tower is an impressive 230-foot high.

In just over an hour by train, you can reach Vilnius so a day trip to the country’s capital is a “must” for your itinerary. Like Kaunas, street art plays an important role in its cultural fabric, as does the plethora of museums and galleries – in fact, it boasts over 50 for visitors and locals to enjoy. There is so much to see, including the Gediminas’ Tower, which provides a spectacular panoramic view of the city. Another tower worth climbing is the iconic bell tower, standing alongside Vilnius Cathedral in the main public square within the heart of the Old Town.